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RARE: A bit too well done.

Corner of East 37th St. and Lexington Avenue

Overall: A much-needed Murray Hill burger joint, with a solid burger, but a bit too pricey and a bit over hyped.  The sides are more than adequate (perhaps a bad sign—the burger should always take center stage), and overall it is a pleasant experience.  The ambiance is a little higher-class than your neighborhood greasy spoon- wear a nice shirt or one with a sheep suspended by a ribbon.  The quality of the ingredients is above average, I’d say, and, if you are tired of the standard beef burger (though I wouldn’t understand HOW that can happen), you won’t be let down with the variety of the menu (any meat that you can imagine being shaped into a patty has been at Rare).  A good place for a date, but don’t come here with your Hell’s Angels buddies.

“Hi, I’m….”: “Melissa, and this is Rachel, Sarah, Allison, and her boyfriend Craig.”

It’s Murray Hill, after all.  There is a West Village location, but this is the original.  Granted, the burgerboy used to live two blocks away, so I am a bit partial to this location, but I am in no way endorsing Murray Hill.

It’s convenient to any part of the city, ok?

I’m Here, What do I see? :
Depending on the time of day, the scene can vary.  Either you’re affronted by a crew of Murray Hill guys who all just left their desks at Lehman, or you enter a calm, civilized bar scene, with dark wood and soft lighting.  Murray Hill girls flock to this place, in the hopes of finding that cute I-Banker with the bottomless pockets (and with no beer on tap and $8 cocktails, who can blame them?).  Just kidding…

But not really.  Girls in this place are always dressed to the nines, which, in certain respects, does make this less of a burger joint and more of a, dare I say, restaurant.  But, no matter, ambiance does not a good burger make.

The Good Stuff:
I used to be a Rare regular.  It is not false that I was there three times in the span of seven days.  However, it is arguable that I was there for the convenience and not the amazing quality of the burger.  Yes, I do realize that my thoughts are all over the place.  I guess my review is all over the place.  I don’t think the burger is THAT good.  That’s right, I said it.  I think it’s overrated.  I think frankienoon might disagree, but this is my review, damnit.  The burger is too fatty.  It has a good amount of sirloin (this is all about the “classic” burger, by the way, no fancy-pants pesto burgers for this guy), which, while high in flavor, makes things a bit too messy for me.  Remember hand-feel?  This burger does not do it for me.  Good but not great.  For a place that only has variants of one item on the menu, I want that one item to shine, and Rare just doesn’t do it.

I guess one of my problems is that the bun has a “story” (as does the pickle, the bacon, the cheese… the menu has turned into a bit of a gourmet sellout), but I think it’s overwhelming.  I’d rather spend my nine bucks 38 blocks uptown at Melon’s.  Rare just tries a bit too hard, I think.  Let’s get back to basics—a good char layer, a little less fat, no side stories.  Lastly, a pet peeve: the burger arrives with a doneness pick in the patty.  What is this, Ruby Tuesday’s?

That might sum it up for me.

Rating (out of 7 cows): 3.5/7

– burgerboy. 5/25/07

The Corner Bistro: Everything Must Change Someday

Corner of West 4th and Jane Streets

Overall: Two years ago, the headline of this review would have said that the Bistro is the reigning king of the big apple.  But alas, things have changed, and unfortunately for an old main-stay of mine, not for the better.  I had heard that recent quality at the Bistro has left something to be desired.  My experience on a recent afternoon validated that notion.  The famous Bistro Burger, against which I had measured all subsequent burgers, failed to reach even its own mark.  The atmosphere and experience are just as good as ever, which makes the Bistro as valuable to this city as it was two years ago.

“Hi, I’m….”:
“Steve, and this is my buddy Rob, and his girlfriend.”

The crowd is always mixed—locals, out-of-towners, and others from all parts of the city.  Anyone can fit in, which makes the Bistro a great microcosm of the greatest city in the world.  A group of old guys can be sitting next to a table of drunk investment bankers, who can be sitting next to a group of young women (probably in college), dressed to the nines, with straightened hair, full-makeup, tight shirts with plunging necklines, tanned skin, supple lips, piercing eyes, and–

Whew, sorry, got a little caught up in the moment there.  Anyway, great crowd, ahem, great crowd.

I’m Here, What do I see? :
The entrance to the Bistro has never been impressive based on the actual site of the pub itself.  Cleanliness is questionable and the smell of stale beer permeates the air.  This is all part of the Corner Bistro’s charm. Pending on the time of day, there could be a huge line of people waiting to be seated.  It can be intimidating, but don’t turn away, unless you have either a closed mind or an exceptionally empty stomach.

Arguably, the most enjoyable part of the entrance starts before you are even inside.  Tucked away on a quiet corner in NYC’s West Village, its location is a welcomed break from the bustling 8th Avenue.  Upon seeing the red neon lights, which have withstood the tests of time, an unlikely sense takes over—the olfactory glands start doing their thing, and something hits you: the lovely smell of bacon.  It wafts through the air and ushers you in like a good friend at the doorstep on a cold winter’s night.  Smoky, porky, fatty delicious.   It calls to you from the street.  In only intensifies as you get closer—daddy’s home.

The Good Stuff: It is not without great sadness that I write the following sentence: The Corner Bistro is not currently the best burger in New York City.  I am sorry.

The quality has slipped.  The meat was underseasoned, and the broiler was probably too hot, yielding a charred, dry crust, with the inside being undercooked.  The bacon was too crispy, and the fries were a little overdone.  The patty was a good size—always a Corner Bistro staple—but the overall quality of the meat did not justify its size.  As always, the McSorely’s Ale was smooth and crisp, but unfortunately, this was the highlight of the visit.  The feeling that I was eating something I shouldn’t have been washed over me as I walked away from the Bistro.  Had it been hyped in my own mind for so long that it could only disappoint?  I do not know.  At the end of the day, the burberboy was let down by the old staple.  I will, of course, give the Bistro many chances to (re)prove itself to me, but for now, I will need to move ahead with a new beacon in a world of ground beef patties and buns.

Rating (out of 7 cows): 5/7

– burgerboy. 4/29/07

JG Melon: Reigning King of the Big Apple

Corner of 74th St and 3rd Avenue

Overall: An especially enjoyable burger experience, from soup to nuts. All the elements needed were there: quality atmosphere, a solid burger, extensive drink options, and adequate sides. Arguably B4B’s favorite burger in the city right now.

“Hi, I’m….”: “Buffy, and this is my boyfriend, Ted.”

Come on people, this is the Upper East Side! A lot of popped collars in the summer, cable-knit sweaters and Polo button-downs in the winter. But don’t let that deter you (it might be tough, I know), this is still a place worth going to. Again and again.

And then maybe another time.

I’m Here, What do I see? : Upon walking in, don’t let the crowd scare you (hint, peak time on the weekends usually ends around 3pm– perfect for that late afternoon burger and bloody mary); there is a system, believe it or not. Push through to the front if you don’t see a guy with a mini clipboard– he’ll tell you what you need to know. It’s actually somewhat civilized. Everyone around you will probably be drinking a bloody mary– do as the locals do and you won’t be disappointed. Feeling a little manly? Get a bloody bull– a bloody mary with some beef stock thrown in there for good measure (Don’t believe me? Check it out here).

Side note: Don’t ask for olives. The Grizza did, and he’s still regretting it.

Waiters and waitresses alike are dressed in ’30s style garb: vests, white button-downs, ties (for men and women). This is a classy joint.

The Good Stuff: Ask and ye shall receive. A manageable bacon cheeseburger awaits those who are patient. A decently sized patty– probably about 1/3 lb, probably ground chuck, I would guess– sits nestled in between two pieces of an all-white seedless bun. Cooked to perfection, the burger remains juicy without being messy– a Burgerboy favorite. The secret lies in the method of cooking: atop a hot flat griddle. Don’t hesitate to poke your head into the “kitchen,” and catch a glimpse of what sheer beauty looks like (for the guys at B4B, at least): rows of hand-shaped ground beef patties, sizzling away on a hot piece of aluminum. Browned to perfection on both sides, the griddle adds that sweetness that a broiler simply cannot create. We need maximum surface contact here. The ground chuck helps keep things in check with its adequate fat content. The bacon is ample without being excessive (isn’t that the definition of “ample?”), and the thin slice of american cheese seals the deal. The cheese actually melts into the burger. On a recent visit, the Grizza and I couldn’t understand how that happens. But who cares? Knowing it happens is good enough for me. Hand-feel (I am pioneering the term for burger evaluation. Usually it’s applied to stuff like golf clubs and fishing rods, but it’s going to work, trust me). The burger fits in the hands and isn’t too big to handle. Bun is not soggy and is perfectly sized for the burger; or is it the other way around?

Sides: Well, a side of cottage fries completes the trifecta of burgers, bloody mary’s, and fried spuds of some sort. The fries are unique– little roundish disks that are puffed out like starch blowfish.

How much more can I say? The burger is like a warm spring night– you just don’t want it to ever end. Is that over the top? I don’t think so. Try and ye shall see.

Rating (out of 7 cows): 6/7

– burgerboy. 4/4/07