February « 2010 « blogging for burgers

Monthly Archive for February, 2010

Bobby Van's Revisited and a Weekend out in the Hampts.

A few weekends ago, BG and I headed out to Bridgehampton for a little getaway outside of the city.  With the business school applications behind me, it was time to start living again on the weekends.  I was looking forward mostly to getting in some solid wine drinking and eating.  The weather forecast called for some snow flurries, but inclement weather wasn’t going to put a damper on my planned consumption.

We were taking off on Friday night straight from work, meaning that we wouldn’t get into town until about 9pm or so.  For me, this meant only one thing– bar food at Bobby Van’s.  Although my last trip to BV’s hadn’t been exactly inspiring, I had high hopes for the sliders, and I knew that after a 3-hour train ride, I would need some nourishment.

As expected, we got to Bridgehampton at about 9.  After picking up the car, we headed over to Bobby Van’s.  Even though it was the off-season, the place was bumpin’ with locals looking to cut the lack of excitement with a few drinks and some grub.  After a short wait, we nestled up to the bar and ordered a couple of Brooklyn Winters.  (Side note, I’ve really be hooked on the Brooklyn Brewery Winter Ale this season.  It’s got a great depth and body to it without being overly heavy.  A great seasonal brew from the local boys.)  I didn’t need to see the menu– an order of mini Kobe burgers and a order of the lamb sliders with mint chimichurri.  It was burger time.

After a brief wait, the six little gems arrived.  They all arrived on nicely buttered brioche buns.  You always know how unhealthy a bun is based on its reflective surface.  I could practically see myself in these things.

Without going into too much detail, I’ve gotta say that the bar burgers are much better than their full-sized sibling.  They were great.  I found the Kobe ones better than the lamb, but this was probably because the mint chimichurri was fairly lacking in substance, and the lamb patties were a bit too mild for my taste– they lacked that gaminess that I look for in a good lamb burger.  Either way, the meal was truly satisfying, and was a great way to kickoff the weekend.

Later that evening, the remaining guests arrived, and we proceeded to put back a few bottles of wine with ease.  A good night’s sleep ensued.

The next day, we headed out to the bowling alley, where my rusty skills impressed no one.  Then the ladies did a little shopping while the men put back a few brews at Rowdy Hall in East Hampton.  But enough of this “outdoor” activity, let’s get back to some eating.  The culmination was supposed to be a big Saturday night dinner.  Although we were only six people, I envisioned a giant roast pig filled with sausages and other meat products, as featured in Fellini’s Satyricon.  The copious amounts of food that we prepared were actually not too far off.

Owen made a toasted walnut and sun-dried tomato pesto, which was great– a combination of earthy walnuts combined with a little salty tang from the tomatoes and a touch of balsamic vinegar.  He also made some cheesy onion bread, baked in the oven until melted and delicious– as he described, it was like “onion soup on toast.”  BG thought it was a bit too salty from the cheese, but I could have eaten that stuff all night without any complaints.  Perhaps I would have been bloated for a week, but well worth the pain.

The bread is on the left of the bowl of green, which in this photo looks like a giant bowl of guacamole, but was in fact a shredded brussels sprout salad, keeping in line with the whole bloating theme.

The main event was a big bowl of pasta that Owen also rocked, with a simple red tomato sauce, very similar to the Scarpetta sauce that is taking over the Upper West Side like a red-tomato plague.

So what did I do in this whole mess?  I know, it’s not like me to just sit back and enjoy without getting my hands in on the action.  I had only one contribution, but one that I took very seriously.

Meatballs.

I am by no means a meatball master.  I have dabbled in the spherical balls of goodness, but I am hardly an expert of the subject.  I usually like to cook them in red sauce, but because we had a vegetarian in the house, these guys had to be made separately from any sauce.  No sauce?  No worries.  Let’s just crank up the fat content.

I went with an 85% lean ground beef (I wanted 80%, but BG persuaded me to be “healthy”), and matched that with an equal amount of ground pork.  The secret ingredient was a good glob of bacon fat leftover from the morning’s bacon, egg, and cheese sandwiches.  Aside from that, the mixture was pretty standard: a good amount of parmesan cheese, parsley, some fresh baguette soaked in milk, and a good amount of salt and pepper.

Not wanting to take the chance of eating anything dry, I opted for a pan-frying and finishing the lot in the oven.  About 45 minutes later, we had delicious, golden-brown balls of meat.  None of us would have an iron deficiency after this meal, that was for sure.  They were tender from the milk-soaked bread, with a great earthiness from the parmesan cheese and a little freshness from the parsley.  Not too bad, I must say.  A little close-up of the onion bread, salad, and meatballs is featured below.

All in all, a great weekend, with a return to NYC just in time to see the Saints win the Super Bowl.  Even better.

I know, I know…

It’s been far too long.  I have been busy, what can I say?  More to come on my recent exploits.

But, a trip to the midtown farmer’s market yielded a new Ronnybrook product: Greek Yogurt!  I haven’t tried it but I’m very excited.

Where can I get one?

Uberchef directed me to this article on CNN.com today, which is a story that seems to be getting picked up in the news sources today.  It’s all about camel burgers and their popularity in Dubai.

That’s right, burgers made of camel meat.

Where can I get one?  Any tips would be much appreciated.

Me? A burger?!

Food 2030: A Sustainability Odyssey

The UK is way ahead of the US when it comes to being mindful of sustainable food sourcing and all that jazz.  Maybe it’s their European sensibilities or funny accents that makes them so.  In any case, the UK’s government has put together a manifesto of sorts, called Food 2030 complete with sofly-lit images of food and farms, which makes me think of a corporate presentation than an official government report.

The report is aggressive in the country’s goals for food production by the year 2030.  They specifically talk about increasing domestic UK food production and lowering greenhouse emissions, and all of the major themes that come to mind when talking about food production.

However, not wanting to let this slip by without a little jabbing, the USDA released the following “report” on the UK document, saying that:

“In general, Food 2030 is considered to be ambitious in its vision, but short in detail about how to achieve that vision. Its strategy very much relies on all stakeholders working together to deliver its aim of a secure and sustainable food supply, and on consumer demand rewarding that investment. That has been the UK government‟s favored approach to food policy of late, and is unlikely to change as competition for ever smaller public funds increases across government departments.”  – USDA GAIN Report, 1/21/2020

Now, it is not an official response or communication from the USDA.  It is merely an assessment of a document that may have effects on US trade. Even still, this type of reaction seems a little harsh, especially coming from the USDA, which has engaged in some equally vague rhetoric about sustainable food production.

Let’s take a little journey back in time, to September of 2009.  The USDA launches the “Know Your Farmer, Know Your Food” initiative, which has a lot of great ideas, but not too many suggestions on how to get there.  Rather than sweat the details, the USDA posted videos of Willie Nelson talking about farms on YouTube, and set up a whole channel dedicated to sustainable food.  There are certainly a lot of good ideas out there, but there’s been little action on any of these fronts, with the exception of maybe the White House Garden, which is more of a PR play than anything.  The most tangible piece of legislature on the subject could be the Farm Bill, which is still the foundation for most of these programs, and that was passed two years ago (NB, Obama did not vote, but voiced his support).  That bill is surely flawed, but it is basically the only source of any actual funding to help support local farming practices without only using images of little kids picking beets in the country.

But who knows what will happen, since many of the subsidies (including those marked for local farmers) are likely to be cut as part of the 2011 budget.  While I applaud the larger farm subsidies going away (which seems unlikely given the strength of the lobby), it does seem a little misdirected in light of what the government is saying it wants to do.  That makes the “Know Your Farmer” project seem, well, ambitious and short in detail.  Until there is some concrete action, let’s take it easy on the criticism of other countries’ proposed policies.  Sounds a little unfair to me.

On a positive note, the FDA is suggesting some serious changes to packaging and portion size, to help curb the rise in obesity.  Read here.

When Hollywood takes notice…

It was announced earlier this week that Food, Inc, has been nominated for an Oscar for best documentary!  For all of you who have not seen it, the film is a documentary focusing on modern food production and an in-depth look at what it takes to bring food to our tables every day.  It is a sobering look at the realities of industrialized food production that makes one think about moving to a farm and eating sprouts all year-round.  It also has a relatively long featured about the Polyface farm, with which I had been fascinated while reading Omnivore’s Dilemma.  It’s near Charlottesville, where I will be headed next weekend.  Perhaps I will get to indulge in some of their wares.

Contrary to some people, the film did not make me want to give up meat nor did it make me nauseous (similar to how reading The Jungle actually made me have a craving for Chicago hot dogs).  But, it does make you think about changing your ways and what you value as being important.  In my honest opinion, it vilifies big business a bit too much (but you all know my position on that), but directionally I am totally in alignment with what the filmmakers are saying.

In a related note, the midtown farmer’s market is not a sad representation of what it once was.  Apples and potatoes are about all that you get, with the odd head of cabbage here or there.  It makes me feel sad inside.

Ronnybrook still shows up, at least, so that makes me happy.

Arterial clogging, part one.

So it was burgergal’s birthday this past weekend, and of course this required eating out.

A few times.  And last week, too.

It kicked off with Wednesday night at Locanda Verde, for a double celebration with burgergal’s dad, (burgerman?) who also celebrated being another year older.  I didn’t take any shots of that meal, since, as you  may recall, Locanda is so dark that none of the pics come out.

But I can certainly write a lot about the meal.  In the absence of pics, I’ll keep it brief.

The meal rocked.

I had been to LV twice but had never experienced the pleasure of eating anything off of their regular menu.  BG had and thought it was great, so I was pumped.  I was finally going to experience something from LV that was not fried or coated in truffles.

On second thought, that doesn’t sound like a good thing, after all.

We started out with some crostini to enjoy with a few glasses of wine.  Some fresh ricotta with roasted garlic bread, another with sausage and pickled ramps (hello!), and a chicken liver mousse.  The chicken liver was the only one that was just “ok”– the liver was too smooth for my liking.  The sausage was exceptional, and everyone loves fresh ricotta.

For actual food, we decided to get a few things and share.  We started out with the lamb sliders, which I had seen recently in a photo and thought they looked eerily similar to the Little Owl sliders.  The taste, however, was compeltely different.  The delicate lamb had only a hint of gaminess, which I love about lamb, and the addition of a thin slice of cucumber and caprino cheese (a soft goat’s milk cheese) brings the slider to a whole new level.

We then had a couple of pastas: the gigante with Sunday ragu, and a ravioli with meat filling (veal, pork, and beef, I believe).  Both pastas were hearty and satisfying, the perfect interlude before the main event: the garlic roasted chicken.  It was garlicky and succulent, roasted to perfection, with some parsnips and other veg on the side.  It was a pretty perfect roast chicken.

Since it was a double birthday celebration, we had to indulge in a few desserts as well.  The maple budino was excellent, topped with roasted walnuts; the toffee date cake was fine, but nothing to write home about, nor was the “chocolate fantasy,” which was billed as something magical but was really just a brownie with two or three gelati on top.  All in, however, it was a great meal.

Part two of the BG birthday extravaganza was Friday night’s dinner at Big Nick’s.  This place was more on my turf than on burgergal’s, but after spending a bit more cheddar on her christmas present than originally planned, it was all that was in the cards for her bday (except for the present and brunch at A Voce– more to come on that in the next post).  Feisty Foodie had done a writeup about the Bistro Burger (I know, don’t get excited for a throwback to the old days in the West Village), and I knew that it was going to be mine.

And it was.

It was an enjoyable burger.  Although not the best one I have ever had, it was a solid representation of Big Nick’s, and I was glad to share it with my main squeeze in celebration of her day of birth.  But, if we keep eating like that, it might be a shorter list of future birthdays.

So what did we do?  We kept eating like that.  Fast-forward to Saturday night.  11.45pm.  Momofuku Noodle is the place.  Fried chicken in my face.

I had high hopes for the fried chicken at Momofuku.  Every blogger in the city knows about the $100 fried chicken dinner, with two types (one Southern style with Old Bay and one triple-fried Korean style with bibim sauce), so I won’t belabor that point.  The point I will belabor is that it really wasn’t anything special.

Yeah, I said it.

Everyone in this town has a hard-on for the Momofuku empire, including, to a degree, myself.  I can’t say enough good things about the bo ssam, and I’ve even given the guy second chances after a dinner at Noodle Bar ended up with me “giving back” the entire meal within 20 minutes of eating.  But the fried chicken was just not anything special.  When it comes to the southern style, I honestly prefer the colonel’s original recipe.  The old bay was not a great addition, and the chicken was so salty I’m still thirsty three days later.  Some of the meat was brutally undercooked (I’ve read about that happening on other posts about this, too), but I didn’t even care to send it back, because it was too salty to eat anyway.  Set me up with some bon chon or KFC any day.

The Korean version was a different story, and it was actually quite tasty, but again, not really worth the hype that surrounds it.  I enjoyed it.  I’ll leave it at that.  The sauce was good, the chicken was (thankfully) cooked.

That’s my plate.  Clearly I still ate my fair portion, and then some.  I gave the chicken the old college try.  I ate a lot of it.  I wanted to love it.  I really did.  But I just couldn’t.  I fell victim to the David Chang-hysteria that has swept this city.

But who am I?  Try it yourselves and let me know how it goes.