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The art of ice cream: Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams and The Steven Kasher Gallery

With the mercury hitting 90 degrees today here in New York, I think it is pretty much safe to say that summer has officially arrived (conveniently, just as the calendar hits June 21st).  I don’t know about you guys, but when the temperature rises, I start to think of cool summer treats: margaritas, white wine, gazpacho, Arnold Palmers, and, of course, ice cream.  Especially when that humidity breaks 80 percent, nothing hits the spot like some smooth and velvety ice cream.

Conveniently enough for me, the “Inspire your palate!” event this weekend at the Steven Kasher Gallery allowed me to get some of the cool stuff, while also expanding my cultural horizons and take in some art.  Since 90 percent of my photography intake consists of pictures found on Photograzing and Smitten Kitchen, I figured it would be good to expand my purview.  And an added bonus: Jeni of Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams was there sampling some of her wares!

Continue reading ‘The art of ice cream: Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams and The Steven Kasher Gallery’

The spice man cometh.

Today I was at the 77th St. flea market with Burgergal and saw this spice guy, reminiscent of markets in North Africa.  Anyway, I thought it was cool so I snapped a photo.  He also had that neat stick with a scoop on the end of it.  He was like a craps dealer, but with freshly ground spice blends.

It’s been a while, and I’ve been up to some random stuff.

Nougatine Burger

Since the blog started as a blog about burgers, I’ll kick off this post with a review of the most recent burger I’ve had.  After a slew of press about the burger at jean-Georges’ Nougatine (just another La Frieda black label rumour– no need to pay it any heed, the only place that has it is Minetta) and a glowing review from my buddy Ben, I had to check it out.  I’ve been to Nougatine and had great, although not memorable, meals, so I figured it had to be pretty good.

Continue reading ‘The spice man cometh.’

A couple of articles worth reading.

As featured on the Farm and Dairy.com commentary section, I wanted to direct my readers to a two-part commentary by Susan Crowell about the keys to achieving sustainable agriculture.

Both halves feature some great, simple thoughts about how sustainable agriculture can be a realistic possibility in this country, and she also directs her readers to check out some of the recent statements by the USDA’s Roger Beachy, whose background may be seen as controversial in the hardcore sustainablist’s camp.

Give the articles a read:

Part I

Part II

Beachy Keen Comments

Herrre, piggy piggy piggy.

Image from Daily Mail

Although I was greatly intrigued with tea cup pigs like everyone else that watches How I Met Your Mother Last night, a link sent over by my friend Arielle quickly changed my feelings towards pigs.

It made me want to eat them.

More than usual.

Cochon 555 is the road show of pork, dedicated to heritage breed pigs, where chefs around the country compete with the hopes of making it to the main event at the Food and Wine Festival in Aspen.  Who will be there on March 21st, 2010, in New Pork City (to their credit, they have that on the website)?

This guy.  And Burgergal.  And maybe other people I know, but they haven’t bought tickets yet, so probably just the burger duo.

Check it out.  It is going to be awesome.  Say it in French (“cinq cent cinquante cinq”) and it’s even more awesome.

Image from Cochon 555 (2009)

What Have I been up to?

I’ve been lazy over the past few weeks.

Well, to be honest, I’ve not been lazy, but have been a combination of busy and exhausted.  I have simply not found the time to serve you, the readers of my blog.

And for that, I am truly sorry.

So let me give you all a quick update on what I’ve been up to.  I’ve been traveling a bit, and of course, I’ve been eating.  One of my recent trips was down to Charlottesville, VA, for a weekend with burgergal down South (ok, and an actual reason, a trip to the Darden School of Business).  Charlottesville is a great town for local food, given the fact that it’s surrounded on pretty much all sides by farmland.  Leave the “city” and drive about 20 minutes in any direction, and you pretty much see this:

As you can see, it gets pretty rural, pretty quick.  However, tucked away within all of that open land is a place that is heralded as the perfect example of a sustainable farm: Polyface Farm.  It was featured in Omnivore’s Dilemma, and Joel Salatin, the farm’s owner, speaks around the country of the importance of the local food movement and supporting local economies.  Since we were going to be within an hour of it, BG and I had to check it out.  I wish I had been staying in the Courtyard again so I could have done some cooking with their products, but a simple visit was going to need to suffice this time.

Of course, just as we fueled the car up before the trip, we needed to fill our bellies a little bit.  A friend and former UVA student had recommended that we check out Wayside Chicken for some fried chicken.  As you all know from the eUWS project, we have been jonesing for some fried chicken for a while, and Harriet’s hadn’t quite cut the mustard.  Needless to say, we were excited.

There it is.  A modest cafe and restaurant, tucked away on a pretty average street in Charlottesville.  “This chicken clucks for you.”  It actually does.  It makes a clucking sound when you walk by.

We ordered up some fried chicken: a breast for BG, thigh and a drumstick for me.  Some mac and cheese and cole slaw on the side.  Keepin’ it real.

So how was it?  It was awesome.  Take a look at that rippling layering of the batter and the crispy nooks and crannies.  The chicken was cooked perfectly, and it was well seasoned throughout.  My guess is that the chicken is allowed to soak in a brine before battering and frying.  And the temp of the oil was just right– there was definitely a little grease going on, but the crunchy exterior formed a crust that prevented sogginess.  If you are down in C-Ville any time soon, do yourself a favor and grab some lunch there.  Just remember, they are closed on Sundays.

After loading up on some fat, it was time to head out to Polyface.  Since the big February storm had just passed over the area, there was quite a bit of snow and ice on the roads, but it was all no challenge for the Kia Sportage and my Andretti-like driving abilities.  We made it out there in about an hour, and despite the confusion over the un-marked and at times un-plowed roads, we finally made it.

Just as it was in Film, Inc.  Polyface Farm.

Now, it being the middle of the winter and us being two of the only fools out on the roads in these parts, we had no idea what to expect.  The place is a working farm, but in the Winter there’s not a whole of action going on.  And it’s also the Salatin FAMILY farm, so that means that there is a house on the property, where people actually live.  So it’s kind of like pulling into someone’s driveway and saying, “let me see your chickens.”  But no worries.

We pulled in and were immediately greeted by Joel’s son, Dan Salatin.  Right off the bat he was a really nice guy, and told us to make ourselves at home and wander around, even though we weren’t buying anything.  True to his word, he pointed us in the direction of the pigs and sent us off on our way.  Everything was pretty muddy and slushy, but we got a pretty good look around in spite of the sub-par conditions.

Right off the bat, you see the chicken coops with the laying hens in them.  They’ve got two different colored birds, grey ones and brown ones, which are color coded really just to help with the processing, which happens every three years.  The first thing I was struck by was how smooth and shiny the chickens’ feathers were– the feathers looked like fur, they were so smooth.  The hens had plenty of room to roam around, and the coops smelled like a barn should smell: like hay.

Look how spacious that is!  Those hens have more room to roam around than I do in my apartment.

A quick walk around the corner and you are in the middle of the pig pens.  The pigs were pretty much doing what pigs do: hanging out in the mud, eating, getting into trouble.  Again, their living quarters did not smell at all, another testament to the cleanliness of this place and the lack of need for antibiotics.  Great stuff.

These guys are going to make some sweet bacon someday.  Until then, they’re just chillin.

There are cows, too.  Not much to say about that.

All in all, this place is great.  I wish the weather were a little more cooperative so that I could have run in the fields, but alas, that was not in the cards for me.  I’m really glad I got the opportunity to head down there, and I look forward to doing so again.

In other (more local) news, BG and I went to Northern Spy with her dad last week, prompted by Sam Sifton’s review in the NYT a few weeks’ back.  The place is all about locally-sourced food and food products (they have a small “general store”), and bobo chicken makes an appearance on the menu.  The food was simply prepared but flavorful, and definitely worth checking out if you find yourself in the East Village.  Be prepared to wait, though, as the space is small and reservations are not taken.

Food 2030: A Sustainability Odyssey

The UK is way ahead of the US when it comes to being mindful of sustainable food sourcing and all that jazz.  Maybe it’s their European sensibilities or funny accents that makes them so.  In any case, the UK’s government has put together a manifesto of sorts, called Food 2030 complete with sofly-lit images of food and farms, which makes me think of a corporate presentation than an official government report.

The report is aggressive in the country’s goals for food production by the year 2030.  They specifically talk about increasing domestic UK food production and lowering greenhouse emissions, and all of the major themes that come to mind when talking about food production.

However, not wanting to let this slip by without a little jabbing, the USDA released the following “report” on the UK document, saying that:

“In general, Food 2030 is considered to be ambitious in its vision, but short in detail about how to achieve that vision. Its strategy very much relies on all stakeholders working together to deliver its aim of a secure and sustainable food supply, and on consumer demand rewarding that investment. That has been the UK government‟s favored approach to food policy of late, and is unlikely to change as competition for ever smaller public funds increases across government departments.”  – USDA GAIN Report, 1/21/2020

Now, it is not an official response or communication from the USDA.  It is merely an assessment of a document that may have effects on US trade. Even still, this type of reaction seems a little harsh, especially coming from the USDA, which has engaged in some equally vague rhetoric about sustainable food production.

Let’s take a little journey back in time, to September of 2009.  The USDA launches the “Know Your Farmer, Know Your Food” initiative, which has a lot of great ideas, but not too many suggestions on how to get there.  Rather than sweat the details, the USDA posted videos of Willie Nelson talking about farms on YouTube, and set up a whole channel dedicated to sustainable food.  There are certainly a lot of good ideas out there, but there’s been little action on any of these fronts, with the exception of maybe the White House Garden, which is more of a PR play than anything.  The most tangible piece of legislature on the subject could be the Farm Bill, which is still the foundation for most of these programs, and that was passed two years ago (NB, Obama did not vote, but voiced his support).  That bill is surely flawed, but it is basically the only source of any actual funding to help support local farming practices without only using images of little kids picking beets in the country.

But who knows what will happen, since many of the subsidies (including those marked for local farmers) are likely to be cut as part of the 2011 budget.  While I applaud the larger farm subsidies going away (which seems unlikely given the strength of the lobby), it does seem a little misdirected in light of what the government is saying it wants to do.  That makes the “Know Your Farmer” project seem, well, ambitious and short in detail.  Until there is some concrete action, let’s take it easy on the criticism of other countries’ proposed policies.  Sounds a little unfair to me.

On a positive note, the FDA is suggesting some serious changes to packaging and portion size, to help curb the rise in obesity.  Read here.