blogging for burgers

I went so fara for a pie at di fara

Di Fara on a lazy afternoon

Di Fara on a lazy afternoon

BG and I are out in Los Hamptones for the long weekend, so today we decided to treat ourselves to a long overdue return visit to Di Fara pizza out in Midwood, Brooklyn.  To take you back to our first jaunt out to the faraway land of minivans and Orthodox Jews…

It was December 2008, and BG and I were returning from a weekend out in the Hamptons.  We had never been to Di Fara, but both of us had heard extensive things about it and figured it would be a good time to try.  After a less than convenient detour from the parkway, we made it happen.

Or so we thought.

We walked in to a crowded and hot pizza place. Nothing there was really striking in any way.  I saw Dom DeMarco making the pies, which was kinda cool, but it wasn’t helping cut through the masses of people in the tiny cramped space.  We waited in line for a bit, and when we finally got to the front, it seemed like the worst was over.  We placed our order- one regular pie.  That was pretty easy.

Then we waited.

And waited.

And waited some more.  It was painful watching Dom make the pies, spread the sauce, spread the cheese, pour the oil, put a little more sauce on a spot he missed, re-shape the dough a little bit, add a little bit more cheese, check another pie in the oven, turn a different pie around, check that first pie again, take out a square pie, put it back into the oven, talk to his daughter, go back to the pie he was forming, check the pies in the oven again, burn one and throw it away, go back to forming the pie, and so forth.  You get the idea.

At this point, it had probably been about 10 minutes (I’m pretty impatient).  In my mind, that was 10 minutes too long.  We asked a girl who was sitting alone how long she had been waiting.

“I’ve been here since about 5.45.”

It was 8.15pm.  At that moment, I knew that I had two choices: risk waiting for 2 hours, or get the hell out of dodge and score myself some pizza elsewhere.  My hunger, which was an 8.73 out of 10, told me to do the latter.  In a flurry of expletives, I stormed out onto the street and into my powder blue rental Chevy Aveo.  I laid some tracks out in front of Di Fara, just for good measure, vowing never to return.

Ok, the Aveo didn’t really lay any tracks, but it was powder blue and I did vow to never return.

“Screw that place, NO pizza can be worth waiting 2 hours for,” is what I had to say about that.  I thought about getting a kosher slice at Pizza Time, which is right down the block, but that wasn’t doing it for me either.

Having pizza on the brain, we headed out to Staten Island to get some pizza at Denino’s, which actually holds a special place in my heart because my grandparents used to take me there.  They also happen to have phenomenal thin crust pizza and great fried calamari.  My mom doesn’t like it for some reason, but she’s the only unhappy customer I’ve ever heard of.

Satiated after my sausage pie at Denino’s, I repeated my vow to never return to Di Fara.  I had some choice words for that place.  I was still fuming a bit, and I told BG I was done with it.  You hear me?  Done.

Well, done until yesterday.

You see, when I say I’m “done with a place,” that is really my code for, “I’m really angry that I didn’t get to try that place but I will return on my own terms and when I damn well feel like it.”  That time happened to be yesterday.  I knew that if we got there as they open for lunch, we were assured to get a pie within 20 minutes.  20 minutes for me was tolerable.

So, we packed up the car for the weekend and headed out to Midwood.  The feelings of anger started to bubble within me along with flashbacks of that ill-fated December night as I pulled a louie on Avenue J.  “If I have to wait more than 20 minutes, I am outta there.”  And my hunger was an 8.74 out of 10.  That’s right, I was HUNGRIER than the first time.

Avenue J was bumpin.  This made me even more frustrated.  I was going to have to circle to find a parking spot for this place?  We pulled up to the corner and I dropped off BG in front.  Her mission was simple: one regular pie and one special pie.  My mission was more complex: find a parking space within a reasonable distance.

Parking the car actually ended up being pretty easy.  Apologies for any false sense of drama there.  I didn’t mean to edit the blog like this is an episode of Whale Wars or something.

As I was walking to the place, I get a message on my blackberry: “They’re doing a shoot in here for something.

What did that mean?  Could we not get pizza?  Should I start the car?  Has Dom DeMarco outwitted me again?  He’s an old man and I’m a cunning young advertising executive with charm and style to spare, there was no way this was happening again.

I arrived to find that the “shoot” consisted of a dude with a camera with a fancy remote light flashbox.  The “something” ended up being a “project for myself,” which I think is a fancy term for “being unemployed and bored.”

The order was in, now it was just a waiting game.  The place is a lot nicer during the day, actually.  Dom’s daughter was very friendly, and even Dom himself was cracking a few smiles and laughing a bit.  A young father with his two daughters was videotaping them eat slices of pizza, probably ruining the whole experience for them (“Take a bite.  No, not too big, just a little bite, look at the camera.”  Also, just a side note—do people still call it “videotaping?”  No one really has videotapes anymore.  I originally wrote “filming them eat slices of pizza,” but that has a dirty old man connotation to it that I don’t feel right about in the context of two little girls.)   I imagined them on some sort of father-daughter trip across the US, eating at all of the famous pizza places.  Sounds like a fun trip.  But they were probably just from West Orange, New Jersey.

Finally, after about 20 minutes, it was our turn.  Our regular pie came out first.  It was pretty beautiful.  I mean, it looked like this:

Di Fara Regular Pie

Di Fara Regular Pie

The carefully crafted crust and hand-shorn basil and liberally-applied olive oil looks a lot better when it’s applied to your pie.  Of course MY pie should be perfect, it’s just all of THEIR pies that should be done quickly.  I let the pie rest for a few minutes before diving in, because I knew that this time would be key to its optimal consumption point, much like letting a steak rest after it’s been cooked.

In the meantime, our special pie came.  It, too, demonstrated great artistry.  Although it was a bit greasy, it was still pretty to look at.  Since we got them to go, Dom gave us a few extra basil leaves on the side, just for good measure.  Maybe the old man isn’t such a bad guy, after all.  He’s just an artisan who happens to make a product a lot of people like.  I just wish he could make it a bit faster.

Di Fara Special Pie

Di Fara Special Pie

I then took the first bite of the regular pie.  What hit me first was the olive oil.  It hit me on the chin, actually.  This pie has a lot of oil going on.  The crust was perfect—firm yet with slight doughiness on the top, and all coated in oil.  If you don’t like olive oil, don’t get this pie.  It was Alan Richman’s main complaint about it, and I can understand it, actually.  After the crust and oil, there is a delicate tomato sauce, which tastes as simple as roasted tomatoes with maybe a hint of sugar.  The mozzarella was unremarkable, but clearly fresh, and that was about it.  What hit me most was the pecorino romano—the pungent saltiness coated my mouth and gave the pie an earthy nutty quality that I found to be the most satisfying.  I finished off a slice in about three bites, but that pecorino kept calling back to me.  Even now I can still taste it.

I would write about the special pie but I’m tired.  It was good.  Next time, two regular pies.  And yes, there will be a next time.  20 minutes, you got that, Dom?

6.5 out of 7 cows.

Di Fara
1624 Avenue J, Midwood, Brooklyn

Bo Knows Ssam

So burgergal’s dad took me and a couple of friends to de-virginize us as to the ways of the momofuku ssam bar bo ssam.  In case you haven’t heard of it, it is basically a giant hunk of pork rubbed with salt and brown sugar slow roasted until the outside is crispy and inside is a tender pork fat explosion.

But before the main event, I’ll set the stage.  I snuck out of the office a bit early to make the 6.30pm seating, and hopped on the 6 train down to union square.  Walking east on 13th street, I crossed 3rd avenue and was met by a beautiful smell.

No, not roasted pork, but powdered donuts.  I didn’t know where the smell was coming from, but I suspected that it was the momofuku milk bar.  But it wasn’t!  I still find it hard to believe that someone was making donuts in their apartment and then covering them with powdered sugar, but I am going to hold out hope.  At that point, I knew that it was going to be a solid night.

I walked into momofuku ssam, and I must have had the look of a pork-driven lunatic, because as soon as I stepped in the door, the host asked me as though he knew the answer, “you’re here for the bo ssam?”  I was indeed.

Once the full battalion of troops had arrived, we started with a few innocent appetizers, you know, just to get the palates cleansed and ready for a PORK FAT EXPLOSION.  Let me see if I can recall what we had:

– Seasonal pickles: pretty unmemorable, but the green tomatoes were good

– hawthorne valley buttermilk: this was pretty unique; it was a solidified buttermilk block in an apple dashi with pinenuts.  Very sour, like plain yogurt.

– hamachi: very tasty cured hamachi tuna

– Uni: it had been a while since I had had sea urchin, and I forgot how much I enjoy it.  And these sea urchin were friggin tasty.  They had just a touch of ocean, but otherwise were smooth like silk.  They made me think about the episode of Tony Bourdain’s show where Eric Ripert prepared pasta with sea urchin, which looked delicious.  It goes a bit against my desire to eat local, because I think they come from Santa Barbara.

– Scallops: Seared to perfection, buttery smooth.

After all of that food, you would think that we would have been done.  But oh no, we had not even started.  The main event arrived, like a golden brown hunk of goodness.  And did I mention it is seven pounds, bone out? I’m pretty certain Momo uses Bev Eggleston’s pork products, since they are used for other dishes there, so it can be eaten in clean conscience.

The bo ssam arrives with a dozen oysters and a slew of kim chi and other sauces, and a bunch of butter lettuce.  The man who brought me this treasure trove instructed us to take the first bite with no sauce, only pork and an oyster.  I did just that.  I never thought that this pairing would work, but did it go down nicely.  I then stuffed my face with more pork for the next hour, until it was just a mass of semi-congealed fat and meat.

At some point towards the end, it looks like this:

P1040680

You see that salty sweet crust?  You see that tender pork flesh?  Imagine it in your stomach.  I don’t have to, because it was already there.  You know it.

Momofuku Ssam Bar
2nd Avenue and 13th Street

Market Day!

Also, it’s farmer’s market day!  Since I’m heading out to Long Island this weekend, I was pretty restrained, but I did buy a few items:

– Shishito peppers– Yuno’s Farm, which has actually changed names to Loni’s farm

– Ground cherries– also at Yuno’s.  I could write a whole post about these little guys.  They are great, get some.

– Seven grain bread and chocolate chip cookies and an almond croissant (which didn’t make it alive out of the market)– not just rugelach

– Chocolate Hazelnut AND pistachio ice cream from Ronnybrook Farm.  I chatted up my girl at the stand and got a special discount today, so i’m pretty stoked.  I will definitely be making some chipwiches this weekend.

Anyway, that’s all I’ve got for today.  A bo ssam post will be coming shortly– stay tuned.  And yes, it was awesome.  They always say, “things that grow together go together,” so I’m fairly convinced that oysters live in pig shit.

Oh mein gut!

Das schnitzel has taken over my belly like a blitzkrieg.  BG told me the schnitzel truck was in my ‘hood so I had to get some pounded out fried goodness.  Being that i’m on a health kick, after reading about Wylie Dufresne’s self-restraint, I decided to go with some chicken schnitzel with sides of Austrian potato salad and sauerkraut.

The platter arrives like this:

Schitzel truck lunch at my desk

mmm, schnitzelly

It’s pretty simple, like all good austrian gut-busting food should be.  I didn’t see any lingonberry jam, but I won’t hold it against them.  Did you know that in Austria, the term “wiener schnitzel” is protected by law and has to be made of veal to be called that?

Anyway, it’s the best thing i’ve gotten from a truck in a few weeks, except for myflat screen tv that fell off the back of  a truck.  Check it out.

Schnitzel Truck
Moves around-  find their location on twitter

There's more to life than burgers… sorta.

I’ve been fielding some complaints about the fact that I have expanded my purview to include food items beyond hamburgers.  There are a few reasons for this disgression on my part:

1) Hamburgers are a great, but not so great during the summer months, when the burgerboy has to hang out in swimming trunks on occasion.  No one wants to see my hamburger buns spilling over the top of my speedo.

2) My food passion has shifted slightly from hamburgers to local sustainable food over the years.  I’ve been hitting the farmers market like a fiend for about 2 years now, and I’ve been englightened to the ways of the local farm.

3) My time at the French Culinary Institute taught me a lot of things about the restaurant and food business, sowhy limit myself to burgers?

4) My paranoia tells me that my cholesterol is through the roof.

5) Pizza and hot dogs are also really good.  And mac and cheese.  And heirloom tomatoes.  And ramps.  And garlic scapes.  And shishito peppers.  And the list goes on…

But, do not give up hope.  I’ve still got burgers on my mind.

DBGB: Like CBGB in three letters alone.

So burgergal and I went to DBGB a few weeks back, just because we had a hankering for some sausage and some burgers.  The spot had recently opened, so my GF the BG had called DBGB ASAP and got us a TFT (table for two).

We went on a sweltering evening in July (july 16th if you are curious or were there and saw us).  It was really hot.  Hot enough that I had to stop into Whole Foods to take a breather.  (Side note, the A/C in Whole Foods is quite refreshing.  I’m not sure how green it is to have a 200,000 sq ft grocery store with high ceilings cooled down to 65 degrees Fahrenheit, but I like it anyway).

Anyway, we walked into DBGB ready to pig out.  I was actually sweating like a pig, so it all fit.  (Another side note.  I realize that these visual images may make you think that I am either a) very out of shape or b) exceptionally heavy-set from eating a lot of hamburgers.  I am in fact neither of those things).  We sat down to a nice table next to a couple of fellow foodies (i heard them talking about markets and momofuku and places in queens i’ve never even heard of), and across from a group of Japanese businessmen.  These guys were classic; they all went out between each course to go smoke cigarettes, and they all ordered the same exact thing.  It was great to watch.

So, we started out with a couple of sausages, because, why not?  We had the boudin, which BG did not eat because of an understandable aversion to sausages that have the consistency of brownies and are made with blood.  We also had the beaujolais sausage, which was delicious.

After fooling around with tubular meats, we went in for the kill: one Yankee burger (a good old american cheeseburger) and one Frenchie (a fancy-pants daniel boulud burger with braised pork belly on it).  Each was different and unqiue, but I’ve gotta give it to the Yankee.  It was a straightforward and simple product that tasted delicious and was well cooked, as a good burger should be.  The Frenchie was just a little too much for me– the pork belly had a slightly oily taste and it just made me feel like I was back in the sweltering heat of the day.

Then BG and I had a sundae for dessert.  It was fatty.  I actually didn’t feel SO bad until I read the below on Grubstreet about Wylie Dufresne and his wife:

“9:50 p.m. We started eating at DBGB, just the two of us. We had the Beaujolais sausage and the blood sausage with mashed potatoes and scallions, which I think has got to be one of the best things I’ve had in a while. They have three burgers. My wife is a fan of the Piggy, but we went for the Yankee because we had some sausage to start.

10:42 p.m. We had dessert. I had a coffee-caramel sundae that was delicious. That being Monday and having had a fairly large dinner, I did not work out that night. Went to bed.”

Now, it seems that Wylie is on some sort of kick to lose weight or something.  But, they “had some sausage to start” and decided to forgo a second burger because of it.  BG and I had sausages to start and continued to order two burgers AND eat dessert.  This makes me feel badly about myself.

But I digress.

The food at DBGB was great.  And it’s not too expensive for a nice weeknight dinner.

DBGB
299 Bowery (at 1st St)
5 out of 7 cows.