blogging for burgers

A (burger) lady in the kitchen.

Burgergal is an avid food blog reader.  She logs a lot of hours on Smitten Kitchen, Pioneer Woman, Eater, Serious Eats, so on and so forth.  It works out really well for me because then I can lay back and let the links come through to me.  It’s like an all-encompassing food edition of The Week magazine.  It’s a huge time saver for me 🙂

Anyway, BG stumbled upon this post which put her in the mood for short ribs.  After she sent me the link, I was in the mood for them, too.  However, being a Thursday during Lent, I knew that I was going to have to wait until Saturday to dive into a plate of beefy goodness.  Uncle G invited us over to hang out for the evening with my six-month old cousin, so we figured that it would be a perfect opportunity for burgergal to show off some of her skills in the kitchen.

And short ribs are tender enough for a six-month old, right?

Burgergal wanted to take care of the meal herself, so I was playing the role of assistant.  It’s tough for me to not jump into food preparation, but I had to force myself to be a (somewhat) passive bystander.

The menu:

– Short Ribs Braised in Carménère

– Parmesan Polenta

BG picked up a couple of pounds of short ribs, and I seasoned them up while she got her mise en place going.

A little onion…

And some shallots…

And a carrot (forgot to take a picture).  That was pretty much it.  The rest was all about the meat and the wine.  A very simple braising recipe by braising’s standards.

First, she rendered the fat from some pancetta and removed it from the dutch oven.  A little glug of olive oil added to the fat from the pancetta and it was time to brown the meat.  Easy stuff.  Burgergal handled this like a champ, with me only providing a watchful eye as she stole the show.

After removing the meat, she added the onions, shallots, and carrot and softened them up.  A nice amount of Carmenere and an equal amount of beef stock later, we were off to the races!  She added the short ribs back in and popped the whole thing into the oven for about three hours.  They emerged from the oven looking deep brown and succulent, with the meat falling off of the bone (as it should have).  Being Friday, I was gonna have to wait until Saturday to dig in.  I did, however, get to sing the McDonald’s “Give me back that filet-o-fish” song a few times.

For serving, we whipped up some polenta with parmesan, to use as the base for the braised goodness.  The recipe was very low fat, so it did not get as creamy as polenta is in restaurants, but the flavor was great and it made for a very photogenic presentation.

Burgergal’s short ribs: a million out of 7 cows!

A couple of articles worth reading.

As featured on the Farm and Dairy.com commentary section, I wanted to direct my readers to a two-part commentary by Susan Crowell about the keys to achieving sustainable agriculture.

Both halves feature some great, simple thoughts about how sustainable agriculture can be a realistic possibility in this country, and she also directs her readers to check out some of the recent statements by the USDA’s Roger Beachy, whose background may be seen as controversial in the hardcore sustainablist’s camp.

Give the articles a read:

Part I

Part II

Beachy Keen Comments

Herrre, piggy piggy piggy.

Image from Daily Mail

Although I was greatly intrigued with tea cup pigs like everyone else that watches How I Met Your Mother Last night, a link sent over by my friend Arielle quickly changed my feelings towards pigs.

It made me want to eat them.

More than usual.

Cochon 555 is the road show of pork, dedicated to heritage breed pigs, where chefs around the country compete with the hopes of making it to the main event at the Food and Wine Festival in Aspen.  Who will be there on March 21st, 2010, in New Pork City (to their credit, they have that on the website)?

This guy.  And Burgergal.  And maybe other people I know, but they haven’t bought tickets yet, so probably just the burger duo.

Check it out.  It is going to be awesome.  Say it in French (“cinq cent cinquante cinq”) and it’s even more awesome.

Image from Cochon 555 (2009)

What Have I been up to?

I’ve been lazy over the past few weeks.

Well, to be honest, I’ve not been lazy, but have been a combination of busy and exhausted.  I have simply not found the time to serve you, the readers of my blog.

And for that, I am truly sorry.

So let me give you all a quick update on what I’ve been up to.  I’ve been traveling a bit, and of course, I’ve been eating.  One of my recent trips was down to Charlottesville, VA, for a weekend with burgergal down South (ok, and an actual reason, a trip to the Darden School of Business).  Charlottesville is a great town for local food, given the fact that it’s surrounded on pretty much all sides by farmland.  Leave the “city” and drive about 20 minutes in any direction, and you pretty much see this:

As you can see, it gets pretty rural, pretty quick.  However, tucked away within all of that open land is a place that is heralded as the perfect example of a sustainable farm: Polyface Farm.  It was featured in Omnivore’s Dilemma, and Joel Salatin, the farm’s owner, speaks around the country of the importance of the local food movement and supporting local economies.  Since we were going to be within an hour of it, BG and I had to check it out.  I wish I had been staying in the Courtyard again so I could have done some cooking with their products, but a simple visit was going to need to suffice this time.

Of course, just as we fueled the car up before the trip, we needed to fill our bellies a little bit.  A friend and former UVA student had recommended that we check out Wayside Chicken for some fried chicken.  As you all know from the eUWS project, we have been jonesing for some fried chicken for a while, and Harriet’s hadn’t quite cut the mustard.  Needless to say, we were excited.

There it is.  A modest cafe and restaurant, tucked away on a pretty average street in Charlottesville.  “This chicken clucks for you.”  It actually does.  It makes a clucking sound when you walk by.

We ordered up some fried chicken: a breast for BG, thigh and a drumstick for me.  Some mac and cheese and cole slaw on the side.  Keepin’ it real.

So how was it?  It was awesome.  Take a look at that rippling layering of the batter and the crispy nooks and crannies.  The chicken was cooked perfectly, and it was well seasoned throughout.  My guess is that the chicken is allowed to soak in a brine before battering and frying.  And the temp of the oil was just right– there was definitely a little grease going on, but the crunchy exterior formed a crust that prevented sogginess.  If you are down in C-Ville any time soon, do yourself a favor and grab some lunch there.  Just remember, they are closed on Sundays.

After loading up on some fat, it was time to head out to Polyface.  Since the big February storm had just passed over the area, there was quite a bit of snow and ice on the roads, but it was all no challenge for the Kia Sportage and my Andretti-like driving abilities.  We made it out there in about an hour, and despite the confusion over the un-marked and at times un-plowed roads, we finally made it.

Just as it was in Film, Inc.  Polyface Farm.

Now, it being the middle of the winter and us being two of the only fools out on the roads in these parts, we had no idea what to expect.  The place is a working farm, but in the Winter there’s not a whole of action going on.  And it’s also the Salatin FAMILY farm, so that means that there is a house on the property, where people actually live.  So it’s kind of like pulling into someone’s driveway and saying, “let me see your chickens.”  But no worries.

We pulled in and were immediately greeted by Joel’s son, Dan Salatin.  Right off the bat he was a really nice guy, and told us to make ourselves at home and wander around, even though we weren’t buying anything.  True to his word, he pointed us in the direction of the pigs and sent us off on our way.  Everything was pretty muddy and slushy, but we got a pretty good look around in spite of the sub-par conditions.

Right off the bat, you see the chicken coops with the laying hens in them.  They’ve got two different colored birds, grey ones and brown ones, which are color coded really just to help with the processing, which happens every three years.  The first thing I was struck by was how smooth and shiny the chickens’ feathers were– the feathers looked like fur, they were so smooth.  The hens had plenty of room to roam around, and the coops smelled like a barn should smell: like hay.

Look how spacious that is!  Those hens have more room to roam around than I do in my apartment.

A quick walk around the corner and you are in the middle of the pig pens.  The pigs were pretty much doing what pigs do: hanging out in the mud, eating, getting into trouble.  Again, their living quarters did not smell at all, another testament to the cleanliness of this place and the lack of need for antibiotics.  Great stuff.

These guys are going to make some sweet bacon someday.  Until then, they’re just chillin.

There are cows, too.  Not much to say about that.

All in all, this place is great.  I wish the weather were a little more cooperative so that I could have run in the fields, but alas, that was not in the cards for me.  I’m really glad I got the opportunity to head down there, and I look forward to doing so again.

In other (more local) news, BG and I went to Northern Spy with her dad last week, prompted by Sam Sifton’s review in the NYT a few weeks’ back.  The place is all about locally-sourced food and food products (they have a small “general store”), and bobo chicken makes an appearance on the menu.  The food was simply prepared but flavorful, and definitely worth checking out if you find yourself in the East Village.  Be prepared to wait, though, as the space is small and reservations are not taken.

Bobby Van's Revisited and a Weekend out in the Hampts.

A few weekends ago, BG and I headed out to Bridgehampton for a little getaway outside of the city.  With the business school applications behind me, it was time to start living again on the weekends.  I was looking forward mostly to getting in some solid wine drinking and eating.  The weather forecast called for some snow flurries, but inclement weather wasn’t going to put a damper on my planned consumption.

We were taking off on Friday night straight from work, meaning that we wouldn’t get into town until about 9pm or so.  For me, this meant only one thing– bar food at Bobby Van’s.  Although my last trip to BV’s hadn’t been exactly inspiring, I had high hopes for the sliders, and I knew that after a 3-hour train ride, I would need some nourishment.

As expected, we got to Bridgehampton at about 9.  After picking up the car, we headed over to Bobby Van’s.  Even though it was the off-season, the place was bumpin’ with locals looking to cut the lack of excitement with a few drinks and some grub.  After a short wait, we nestled up to the bar and ordered a couple of Brooklyn Winters.  (Side note, I’ve really be hooked on the Brooklyn Brewery Winter Ale this season.  It’s got a great depth and body to it without being overly heavy.  A great seasonal brew from the local boys.)  I didn’t need to see the menu– an order of mini Kobe burgers and a order of the lamb sliders with mint chimichurri.  It was burger time.

After a brief wait, the six little gems arrived.  They all arrived on nicely buttered brioche buns.  You always know how unhealthy a bun is based on its reflective surface.  I could practically see myself in these things.

Without going into too much detail, I’ve gotta say that the bar burgers are much better than their full-sized sibling.  They were great.  I found the Kobe ones better than the lamb, but this was probably because the mint chimichurri was fairly lacking in substance, and the lamb patties were a bit too mild for my taste– they lacked that gaminess that I look for in a good lamb burger.  Either way, the meal was truly satisfying, and was a great way to kickoff the weekend.

Later that evening, the remaining guests arrived, and we proceeded to put back a few bottles of wine with ease.  A good night’s sleep ensued.

The next day, we headed out to the bowling alley, where my rusty skills impressed no one.  Then the ladies did a little shopping while the men put back a few brews at Rowdy Hall in East Hampton.  But enough of this “outdoor” activity, let’s get back to some eating.  The culmination was supposed to be a big Saturday night dinner.  Although we were only six people, I envisioned a giant roast pig filled with sausages and other meat products, as featured in Fellini’s Satyricon.  The copious amounts of food that we prepared were actually not too far off.

Owen made a toasted walnut and sun-dried tomato pesto, which was great– a combination of earthy walnuts combined with a little salty tang from the tomatoes and a touch of balsamic vinegar.  He also made some cheesy onion bread, baked in the oven until melted and delicious– as he described, it was like “onion soup on toast.”  BG thought it was a bit too salty from the cheese, but I could have eaten that stuff all night without any complaints.  Perhaps I would have been bloated for a week, but well worth the pain.

The bread is on the left of the bowl of green, which in this photo looks like a giant bowl of guacamole, but was in fact a shredded brussels sprout salad, keeping in line with the whole bloating theme.

The main event was a big bowl of pasta that Owen also rocked, with a simple red tomato sauce, very similar to the Scarpetta sauce that is taking over the Upper West Side like a red-tomato plague.

So what did I do in this whole mess?  I know, it’s not like me to just sit back and enjoy without getting my hands in on the action.  I had only one contribution, but one that I took very seriously.

Meatballs.

I am by no means a meatball master.  I have dabbled in the spherical balls of goodness, but I am hardly an expert of the subject.  I usually like to cook them in red sauce, but because we had a vegetarian in the house, these guys had to be made separately from any sauce.  No sauce?  No worries.  Let’s just crank up the fat content.

I went with an 85% lean ground beef (I wanted 80%, but BG persuaded me to be “healthy”), and matched that with an equal amount of ground pork.  The secret ingredient was a good glob of bacon fat leftover from the morning’s bacon, egg, and cheese sandwiches.  Aside from that, the mixture was pretty standard: a good amount of parmesan cheese, parsley, some fresh baguette soaked in milk, and a good amount of salt and pepper.

Not wanting to take the chance of eating anything dry, I opted for a pan-frying and finishing the lot in the oven.  About 45 minutes later, we had delicious, golden-brown balls of meat.  None of us would have an iron deficiency after this meal, that was for sure.  They were tender from the milk-soaked bread, with a great earthiness from the parmesan cheese and a little freshness from the parsley.  Not too bad, I must say.  A little close-up of the onion bread, salad, and meatballs is featured below.

All in all, a great weekend, with a return to NYC just in time to see the Saints win the Super Bowl.  Even better.

I know, I know…

It’s been far too long.  I have been busy, what can I say?  More to come on my recent exploits.

But, a trip to the midtown farmer’s market yielded a new Ronnybrook product: Greek Yogurt!  I haven’t tried it but I’m very excited.